On a windy wintry day we conquer the Great Wall. Which is to say three of us, Bak, Fei and my mother, climb to the seventh, topmost tower at the Badaling leg of the wall while five of us do the we came, we saw, we waited thing. Then we go and celebrate by getting ice cream at the foot of the wall, guzzling beer on the way to lunch at a rundown rural restaurant and getting eaten alive.
There we are in the restaurant, too tired to study the menu or manage anything other than saying yes to the waitress’ thoughtful recommendations (yes, waiting was tiring too). Do we want greens fresh from their farm? Okay. Lamb? Okay. Fish fresh from their pond? Okay. We have never heard of
xunyu; sounds good; how much could it cost anyway?

The fish arrives tail first. It is a most impressive steamed tail, about as long as a forearm and as jiggly as J.Lo because it is so cooked but still so springy. Jiggle, jiggle, jiggle…it is brought to the table. Altogether six dishes of the fish arrive (soup, sweet and sour and so on). So does the lamb. So do the greens. We eat or try to, those of us who are not trying to digest all the ice cream and beer. Then it is their turn to eat us for lunch: The bill is 2,700 yuan (S$540), inclusive of an impressive 1,700 yuan for the impressive fish. My father, finding himself in a surreal Money No Enough moment in the cheap and good country, has to pool his cash with my uncle’s and is none too thrilled.
Ever quick on the uptake, the waitress takes us on a tour of their pond (she doesn’t know Cantonese, I don’t think, but she knows disbelief when she hears universal sounds such as hah and wah) and in it we see some 34,000 yuan swirling, whirling and swimming.
It is the most mesmerising thing, swimming money. Not enough to hypnotise the older ones, however. They spend the rest of the day theorising that our drivers (400 yuan per man per day) conspired with the restaurant against us. They are old-world about things like justice: A person is guilty until proven innocent. “Didn’t he tell us not to eat too much on the way there?” my mother goes. “Didn’t he tell us 2,000 yuan wouldn’t be too much for a meal?”
They spend the rest of the week philosophising about it. My father, the master of nicknames, decides to call their driver “our teacher”. “There is our teacher,” he goes when he sees the man at the car park at the hotel. “Our teacher has taught us a lesson and we have learnt it. Now we go to the food court next door.”
I try to remind them about the basics of the case, “We didn’t read the menu, did we?” Fei goes and speaks man to man with the accused, who says he didn’t know about any
xunyu. But they don’t believe him.
In the end it is Y who solves the case. At dinner mere days after we come home he says he spoke of our fishy banquet to a China-born co-worker and discovered we hadn’t been overcharged. We had eaten a whole
zhonghuaxun, a Chinese sturgeon, a first-class protected animal in China – “as protected as pandas”. Right away everyone agrees that the restaurant was right not to have warned us of the price, absolutely right. “We wouldn’t have eaten it. We would have missed out,” my uncle says.
Many months later a sturgeon, bitten to death by barracudas in Hong Kong, hits the world’s headlines. “A state funeral was almost held. Hu Jintao almost attended,” my father says with pride so palpable, I have to laugh.
When my family come round we really come round.